Click here to view our Picture GalleryBeijing, China... March 4 - 9, 2006
by Jessica Rimington
SATURDAY
Welcome to China
When we walked off the plane it hit me fast: silence. It was a shock to my system -like when you walk from air conditioning into the humidity of Miami. Last time I had been on land was in Newark airport - which I see now as a montage of fast glimpses: kids crying, mustard spilling, suitcases clanking, the loud speaker crackling with accented voices. And now, thirteen hours later, I stepped off into a parallel airport reality: Beijing, China - shiny floors, gentle lighting, wide expanses of indoor open space. Barely anyone talked, and if they did it was in low, calm voices. Even our feet seemed to make less noise when they hit the ground. It was as though the building had been designed to absorb our sound and radiate silence back to us.
I'm used to immigration lines being battle scenes. I'm used to pushing my way to the attendant, hugging my purse to my chest, and not taking 'no' for an answer. I'm used to sweat dripping down the spine of my back from the extreme heat of Africa -used to clinking ceiling fans and to knowing the faster I get through immigration the better the chance my luggage will still be on the other side. So, I suggested to Jill and that we hurry up our pace to make sure we were some of the first non-nationals in the immigration line. So, we walked fast only to find smiling faces in perfectly formed queues in front of well lit and well staffed immigration booths. And most startling of all -it was so quiet. A smooth hush of stillness rushed through my body. I didn't know how to process it. Immigration was effortless. Baggage claim was pleasant. And, on the other side of the crisp, white airport wall, Barbara stood waiting with a sign that read, "Welcome Jessica and Jill".
Welcome to China.
* * *
Little America and children of globalization
Tonight and tomorrow we are staying with Barbara, a teacher at the International School of Beijing. We are actually in China to work with the Yuxin High School on the other side of the city. But, I had known Barbara through a mutual friend and wanted to meet her while we were in Beijing.
Barbara lives in what she calls "Little America". As a teacher for the International School of Beijing (ISB) she is given housing in one of several Villas near the school. The Villas bear names such as: "Yosemite" and "Sydney Coast". To enter the Villa you pass through a gate with 5 to 7 uniformed guards (who salute every time you pass by). Security has gotten stricter recently because a Taiwanese woman was murdered in her Villa home (which we are told was an unusual and surprising occurrence). Each Villa is filled with identical houses in curving rows. Each home within the Villa has the same layout of big windows, beautiful winding staircases, and tall ceilings. A house like this in the U.S. would be very expensive.
Down the street from the Villas is a small shopping plaza with: a Starbucks, a restaurant called Little Italy, a DVD store, and a Subway. The stores are filled with non-Chinese people -mostly residents, but some visitors. Many foreign families live in Beijing due to employment at multi-national companies based in China. The companies pay for their children to attend international schools...such as the International School of Beijing where Barbara teaches. The students at ISB are from all over the world. As we walked down the halls of the school we passed an art display where 3rd graders had created puzzle pieces representing their heritage. The artwork showed that mothers and fathers were often from different countries and the children had usually lived in two or more countries and spoke several languages.
It seems there is this whole network developing of children who are truly 'citizens of the world' -byproducts of globalization. And, there is also a whole society of international school teachers. Barbara has led an amazing life traveling the globe teaching! She began teaching in Italy, then lived in the Ivory Coast (before the serious conflict broke out), and now has lived and taught in Beijing for 6 years. Her stories are fascinating and her friends are spread out all over the globe -in Sri Lanka, South Africa, Ivory Coast, Costa Rica, Australia, etc.
* * *
Beijing, Beijing, Beijing
Tonight we went into the city. Beijing is like New York, Boston, or D.C. -but so different at the same time. It's challenging to articulate the exact differences... there is just this feeling I get when I walk around... a feeling like this isn't the real Beijing -like this is the one made for brochure covers and if I round a corner fast enough I'll come across the real city -a noisier, more crowded, more frantic version.
There are several strands of commonality that seem to exist everywhere in the city: pastel colors that often involve cartoon-like images (such as the Olympic "friendlies"), small geometric things (the subway cars are so tiny looking with such box-like edges), well-lit spaces (nice street lamps with broad shining bulbs), and the ability to pack a lot into a small space (there is so much to look at in just one corner of one area -yet it doesn't appear cluttered). The street was very clean; it was noisy but calm at the same time. Commercialism is alive and well but seems less frantic than in the United States (billboards feature less faces and more blends of colors and nature images).
Before I arrived here, I pictured China in shades of red (no, not just because of Communism... but because of silk, hanging lamps, sunsets, bright colored-lips, dragon puppets, etc.). I hadn't seen much red until we came across a side street. The entrance was an arched, golden doorway. Shades and textures of red were just oozing out from the entrance way! We entered the arched alleyway and it was like being transported into another world. The lighting was dimmer -more of a fire-side tone -giving everything a glow. By everything I mean: wooden sticks crawling with live scorpion-like insects, roasted white bloated worms pierced with thin poles, shiny gold jewelry on selling-carts, small children in pig-tails their eyes glossy from trying to capture all the sights and sounds above them, smells that reminded me of popcorn and tortilla flour mixed with dog-pee and gasoline, bells and chimes and anything else that jangled and clanged. And, all in a mixture of red-tones...the colors you see in fire: deep reds, harsh golds, sharp greens, and black, black, black filling up all the unused spaces. When I looked up, the night sky was black, black, black -a huge expanse of unused space -no stars. Just a hazy, half sliver of an orange moon.
* * *
Safe
I feel so safe here. Beijing is so safe. Woman can walk alone at night with little worry. Barbara sometimes leaves her car unlocked. Little children wander strides away from their parents, even downtown. Ten year old girls ride city buses alone at 9pm.
It is difficult for me to get used to this. When I travel, I'm used to always having to be hyper-sensitive to everything and everyone around me. I'm used to doubting every smile just a little bit and making sure my hips don't sway too much when I walk. I'm used to making sure whoever I am traveling with is in my eye range. Though, as we walked around last night I felt absurd when I slowed down my pace so Jill would be walking in front of me.
I think Beijing is the safest large city I have ever visited. It is amazing what a relief this is -I feel much freer.
* * *
SUNDAY
The Great Wall
I was at the top of the Great Wall and I leaned out one of the tower windows. Below was an enormous valley, on the horizon were mountains, and between sky and valley was a town -the buildings were so far away they were the size of puzzle pieces. The song "From a Distance" entered my head and suddenly a rush of childhood memories came flooding back to me -memories of dreams of Asia. Dreams of older times -ancient times. Times of emperors, gold plated shields, overworked silk worms, women with braided, shiny black hair, and a wall so long that no beginning or end could be seen from anywhere but satellites in space. And so, I touched the wall. I tried to find a particularly decrepit and mossy spot. And, I just held on to it for a moment. I wanted to feel the history. How many hands had felt this same stone? Who placed it here? When? What did he or she think of this soon to be mammoth structure? I pictured a guard, 600 years ago, pacing the stones where my feet now stood. I pictured him taking a break to lean against the wall, touching this very stone. I tried to picture us there simultaneously. As though his body was a ghostly silhouette over mine. It was too difficult -I couldn't quite picture him -too many unknowns. But, it didn't matter too much... because when I leaned out the window the wind messed with my hair, hit my face, stung my eyes -and if I didn't know any better, if I didn't know that I could turn around and see Barbara and Jill -I could easily have been that guard 600 years ago. Earth hasn't changed that much -same wind, same mountains.
* * *
Barbara's friend, Mr. Lee, told us that at one point the wall was in many separate pieces, each piece guarding a different country. But, when (over 1,000 years ago) a new emperor came to power he brought all the countries together and demanded the wall be connected. For hundreds of years slaves and peasants worked on connecting the wall. Hundreds and hundreds died in the process -their bodies are most likely buried in foundation of the wall. Once completed, the wall was highly protected. Guards made sure no one from Mongolia (a country with a struggling economy) could enter China. The guards would stand on each of the towers on the wall. To communicate they made smoke signals by burning wolf dung.
* * *
Coupons, Mao, communism, capitalism, and Mr. Lee
Mr. Lee told us about his life. He said, "I never would have imagined such changes. As a child I never would have thought Beijing would be like it is now. Never." He was born in 1963. His parents both worked in an automobile factory. Barely anyone owned a car in China at that time, but the vehicles were produced for companies to use. Everyone used bicycles for transport. "We bought things with coupons," Lee explained. The government distributed coupons to each person and family. A coupon was like a ticket that could be redeemed for a certain product. Each family was given coupons for different products -but they could not choose which products. "The food was so little," Lee told us. "It was so little with the coupons. We also would use a little bit of money too when we traded in our coupon." Every month the government distributed new coupons. Every year the government gave each individual a coupon for a new bicycle. "When I was young we didn't learn much in school. We just learned the stuff of Mao. We learned his slogans, his sayings, how he thought things should be," said Lee. For instance, if one walked into a shop one was expected to say a certain phrase to the shopkeeper. The shopkeeper would then reply with a certain phrase back. Mao Tse Tung scripted the nation's conversations. Mao hoped to control the nation. He hoped to prevent outside influences from filtering in and effecting his populous. "There was a time when it was forbidden for foreigners to talk with us," said Lee. "If we talked with them, there was a punishment. Foreigners only had one shop in the entire city where they could shop. Just one -no place else."
Here is a little of what Mao had to say:
"A well-disciplined Party armed with the theory of Marxism-Leninism, using the method of self-criticism and linked with the masses of the people; an army under the leadership of such a Party; a united front of all revolutionary classes and all revolutionary groups under the leadership of such a Party -these are three main weapons with which we have defeated the enemy." (1949)
"Communism is at once a complete system of proletarian ideology and a new social system. It is different from any other ideological and social system, and is the most complete, progressive, revolutionary and rational system in human history." (1940)
"The nooses have been fashioned by the Americans themselves and by nobody else, and it is they themselves who have put these nooses round their own necks, handing the ends of the ropes to the Chinese people, the peoples of the Arab countries and all the people of the world who love peace and oppose aggression." (1958)
"People of the world, united and defeat the U.S. aggressors and all their running dogs. People of the world, be courageous, dare to fight, defy difficulties and advance wave upon wave. Then the whole world will belong to the people. Monsters of all kinds shall be destroyed." (1964)
Lee did not like Mao. But, he explained that many did and still do. "The uneducated loved Mao," said Lee. "They didn't understand. Many still don't understand. They still don't know the facts. They still think he did good -the ones who are not educated, who are ignorant, think this."
During the 1940s the Chinese Civil War was in full swing. In 1949, the Communists under the leadership of Mao came to power. The opposing side -the Kuomintang -fled to Taiwan. The People's Liberation Army (PLA) marched into Beijing where Mao proclaimed the People's Republic of China. In 1966 Mao launched the Cultural Revolution. Anything that was considered to be anti-proletarian was to be destroyed. This included temples, the educational system, and often times, people. Mao's youth army, the Red Guard, patrolled the nation. Anyone harboring "capitalist-roadster" thoughts was suspect. Neighbors turned on one another. In 1979, Deng Xiaoping launched a modernization drive. China opened up. Westerners were allowed in. Temples, monuments, and schools were restored. China embraced modernity, but did not alter politically. In 1989, pro-democracy student demonstrations took place in Tiananmen Square. The government responded brutally. The whole world watched. Today, China exists as a communist and capitalist nation -somehow, perhaps awkwardly, balancing the two.
"I grew up when things were changing. But, change this great I did not expect," Lee explained. "Do I like China better now? Yes, of course. There has been so much change. So much." When asked what he thinks of China being communist -whether he thinks it will remain communist, Lee laughs and says, "China is not really communist -not truly."
"Do you think China is going to be the next big superpower in the world?" I ask Lee.
"Yes. Yes, I do," he says.
*Note: Beyond, historical facts, quotations, and dates mentioned, the above dialogue is a description of a subjective conversation. Each person in China has his or her own opinion of the political situation. This is just one opinion.
* * *
Bikes and leaves
It was a picture I wish I had taken. A 1970s bike leaned against a bush. And, the bush was almost the same color as the bike. It was as though someone had adjusted the color levels on life. Both bike and bush seemed to be veiled in grayish gossamer. I touched the leaf -a bright green thumb print appeared. The leaves were dusty. The bike was dusty. Enough dust had fallen and settled to change the colors of life -to hide them. Yet, when I turned around and looked at the horizon, I saw one of the most spectacular sunsets. Electric red and sparkling orange pulsated the sun into ripples, they fizzed over at the edges into yellow and pink. Pollution redistributes the color palette. It has favorites -bikes and leaves apparently don't make the cut.
* * *
MONDAY
Linear Beijing
I see lines everywhere. If someone were to ask me right now, "How do you see Beijing?" I would reply, "I see it in straight lines." It is thousands of thin lines that illustrate the Y50 bill -the lines create the hair, eyelids, and background of the man on the front of the paper currency. It is parallel lines that decorate the cement sidewalks. The children march in rows. Buildings are aligned parallel to one another. Every time I have seen a tree, it has been in a row. Along the roadside there are hundreds of trees planted in lines. It is as though someone studied the 'idea' of a forest or a park:
A forest is a place where trees grow. A park is a place where families can relax in nature.
And, then applied a formula to replicate it:
We can maximize the number of trees if we plant them in eight parallel rows. We can maximize the number of families who can relax in the park if we have empty spaces between the trees of seven feet.
And, the result is planned nature. Huge areas of forest where all the trees are in rows. I mean, literally, I have not come across a tree that does not belong to a straight line of at least five others.
I see Beijing as a city of lines. It makes me notice more. The lines act as arrows, pointing out the subtleties of the city. I find myself following the lines with my eyes until I meet their completion. For instance, my eyes followed the space between two rows of trees as far as it went. I squinted to focus on what was at the other end -a field and a person walking -his boots were dark brown and muddy. My eyes followed a cement line design in the street and came upon pointed high heel shoes. The shoes were small, shiny, leather, and very stylish. They were attached to a teenage girl with a shaggy haircut, dark crimson lips, cheeks painted with pink blush, and eyes decorated with darkening mascara.
* * *
Yuxin High School
The first thing we did when we arrived at Yuxin High School was to attend the Monday morning assembly. The headmaster, a well-dressed man with a kind smile and a welcoming laugh, led us to the cement courtyard. There over 100 students stood -all in matching track-suit uniforms (all Chinese schools require uniforms of their students... usually all of the bright-colored, track-suit nature). They stood in rows, facing a stage. Some students wore red scarves around their necks (a sign of prestige for those youth who have demonstrated academic success). Several young people spoke on stage into an echoey microphone. Sometimes after the student speaker said something, the crowd would repeat it in unison. Sometimes the crowd marched or did stretches in unison. Near the end of the assembly everyone sang the school's poem in unison, as the Chinese flag waved in the background. This assembly happens every Monday morning of every week.
After the assembly we were given a tour of the school. What struck me most was the amazing student artwork. The artistic skill level was incredible... fifth grade artwork looked like something one could see in exhibition (no exaggeration).
After being fed a delicious lunch, drinking several cups of tea, and made to feel very welcomed, we met the 40 high school sophomores we'd be working with for the next few days. It was simultaneously exciting and nerve-racking to walk into the classroom. The students in Chinese schools do not move from class to class (their teachers travel instead) -so everyone was already seated... eyes forward, expectant. We introduced ourselves ...although things still seemed a little awkward, we could tell by the smiles and bits of excited laughter that things were going to work out well. Our goals for the day were to break the ice, to get everyone talking, and to introduce their sister-school (Sherwood High School of Sandy Spring, Maryland, USA).
We always strive to be interactive with everything we do with One World Youth Project. If we tell a story -there has to be a call and response element. If we introduce a concept like the UN Millennium Development Goals -there has to be a time for students to respond and react. The trick, I think, is to never let too many sentences slip passed without reminding the students that this is a dialogue rather than a lecture; and that we are moderators/facilitators rather than teachers.
Everyone in the class spoke English very well! But, Jill and I kept having to remind ourselves to speak slowly and clearly ...and to speak with alternative phrases added on to the ends of our sentences... for example: "In South Africa, they wanted to vote the U.S.A. out of the summit (slight pause), wanted to kick the U.S.A. out (slight pause), they wanted to make us leave."
After 25 to 30 minutes things seemed comfortable. We were all laughing a lot!
We showed the DVD from Sherwood High School on the big screen in the classroom. Everyone was captivated. It was exciting and interesting to see the students' reactions. They seemed most surprised at the scenes of the Sherwood students eating lunch with friends in a classroom. Everyone laughed when they said, "Hello China!"
After the video we asked the students to reflect on the similarities and differences between their own school and what they saw of Sherwood. The first thing someone said was: "Freedom. There is much more freedom at Sherwood." Over the next few responses this statement would be elaborated on in varying forms: "They can eat lunch in more freedom" "They don't wear uniforms", etc. They noticed similarities too: "The math in the math class... it was calculus... we learned that same formula. And, can I ask you a question? Is that the kind of math all American students learn? Because we had heard that our math in school in China was more advanced?" This spurred a series of questions about the United States. Here were some of the questions:
-What about parents being strict? Are they strict to their children?
-What about relationships... boy and girls... do they allow?
-Can girls dress up in the United States? To school?
-When my dad visited New York City he said there were a lot of bad people doing bad things…is this true? He said in the subway he saw bad people around.
-Can students have musical bands in school?
-Who is your favorite singer?
-Do you know Yao Ming?
-Do many youth wear glasses in the United States? (A lot of the students at Yuxin were wearing glasses).
-How many hours of homework a night does an average American student do?
-Do you like Chinese food? Have you had Beijing duck?
-What do Americans think of China... American youth... honestly? Do they know much about our country?
-How long is the school day in America? (They were shocked by how short it was).
In turn we asked questions...
-What do you like best about your school?
*The teachers. They are so nice. *My classmates. They are like my brothers and sisters. I do not have brothers and sisters... so my classmates are my brothers and sisters. We are so close.
-What do you like least about your school?
*The uniforms. They are so ugly.
*I don't like how us girls have to have the same haircut. Has to be short. The government says we have to have our hair this way...for some reasons they have given. Boys too...they have two options of haircuts.
*The stress. There is so much work. \ So much pressure... everyone HAS to go to college... to try to go.
*Not enough freedom.
The students we have met are very hardworking. They have an incredible amount of homework and go to school for long hours. Most don't finish till around 5pm. Everything builds up to this one test all students have to take their senior year of high school. One's results from the test determine whether one goes to college and to which kind of college... which, of course, in turn determines what kind of job one might have in the future and what kind of salary, etc.
Yet, all the students are always smiling, laughing, talking, playing basketball and running around at break time. There seems to be a very close bond between classmates -more so than in the United States. China has the 'one child per family' policy to help with overpopulation... so most students have no brothers or sisters... and it really seems as though their classmates do act as their brothers and sisters. School seems like a family in China. The students spend the majority of their daily life at school. Even teachers seem to have a closer bond with one another. Yuxin High School is its own community. And, the students here are lucky -Yuxin is a very good public school in a nice location.
* * *
TUESDAY
Exercising Grannies and Disappearing Calligraphy
This morning we were able to visit the Summer Palace, once home to Emperors of the Qing-dynasty. In 1860 many of the buildings were severely damaged during the Second Opium War. Approximately twenty years later Empress Dowager Cixi (once one of Emperor Xianfeng's concubines), spent money earmarked for a modern navy to refurbish the palace.
When I think about the palace two particular images remain inked in my memory:
IMAGE ONE: Paint brushes 4.5 feet tall
Picture first a long thin branch stretching out across a blank palette of nothingness. Give this branch delicate evergreen pine needles. The branch dances up and down gently in the wind. The needles scrape against each other, making an almost metallic sound that if given a word, I would give: tsiss, tsiss. Behind the branch paint in a lake. It is cold so the lake has that grayish-blue tinge of winter. Beside the lake add in curving land. Land that is high enough to form a small grainy cliff by the water's edge. Where the land meets the lake, imagine ice chunks. On top of the land place a smooth stone walkway. Keep your dancing branch close to your eyes. It is almost as though you are looking through the pine needles to see the lake -if you duck under the branch you have a better view of the whole scene. Now, squint your eyes to other side of the lake. There, an arched bridge rests. It is severely arched -like the back of an inch-worm. The air around the bridge appears foggy. Everything in the distance is hazy. Just beyond the branch an older man stands holding a paint brush that is at least 4 and half feet tall. The tip of the large brush head has been dipped in either water or light colored ink. He rapidly paints Chinese characters on the cement walkway. He paints them in vertical lines. As he moves on to the next line, the previously painted characters are already starting to fade.
IMAGE TWO: Exercising Grannies
Picture your grandmother in a bright colored track suit. Picture her wearing brilliant white sneakers, picture her hair pushed back by a headband. Now place her in the stone courtyard of a Chinese palace over 200 years old (just try it). Now, add in the grandmothers of eleven of your friends. So, all together there are twelve grannies in the stone courtyard. Okay. Now, add in a boom-box. The boom-box is playing a disco-meets-techno beat. The twelve grandmas are in 4 rows of 3. They are marching to the beat in unison. They are crouching to the beat in unison -now turning slowly, now punching the air, now marching, now crouching, now turning slowly, etc. Every morning tens of older Chinese men and women exercise (often in groups) in public parks and historical sites. I have a great admiration for these fit grandmas and grandpas. And, what an amazing place to exercise -an emperor's palace!
* * *
Day Two at Yuxin High
People are people everywhere. Young people are young people everywhere. We are all so similar. I see the same smiles, laughs, friendships in the students at Yuxin as I see in the students at Sherwood. It is so comforting to yet again discover how close together we all really are.
Today was a fun day. That's what one of the students, Emily, told us. "Today was fun," she said as we were walking to the teacher's office after the workshop
During the two hour workshop we split the class into 2 groups. One group worked with Jill to write a declaration about their lives/community to the United Nations. And, the other group worked with me to film their school's documentary to send to their sister-school in Maryland.
I was very impressed by the natural leadership that we saw in the students. The students were excellent at self-organization. Once we got everything explained and all the groups divided up, things ran smoothly. Everyone took their tasks seriously -yet we also had fun in the process.
The video group has been very creative. I can't wait to show Sherwood High School the final documentary!
* * *
Old to New
There is so much construction going on in Beijing. Everywhere I turn, I see the skeletons of buildings soon to be complete. Then, there are hundreds of already shiny, new sky-scrapers -modernity everywhere. Technology buzzing on every city street. As we drive passed the building frameworks, I close my eyes to imagine what their completed form might be like. One can almost fill in the whole city like this. Beijing in 5 years... all this empty space we pass...all these older buildings... all the hutongs (traditional alleyways) most likely filled in with things shiny, new, and tall. The city will be massive -in width and height.
* * *
WEDNESDAY
We understand each other
I feel like everyday I find a new Beijing. First off the city is huge -and that is an understatement. Second, there is a severe amount of traffic. This combination provides a lot of time to gaze out a car window. A short distance is a 30 minute drive. On average it takes us 45 minutes to an hour by taxi to get from one location to the next. So, I've seen much of China in passing -whizzing away beyond the window glass. I keep trying to grab onto images... keep trying to think, 'okay, this is what I will remember of Beijing. This is the adjective I can use to describe the city.' But on the next street, my conclusions are shattered and morphed. It is a constant evolution of image -and a constant processing of experiences. Every night I come back with a mental package of things to think through and reflect on. So, I have no adjectives to give you. No "Beijing is..." statements to offer. But, the one thing I can say is this: for only knowing one word of Chinese, I have felt surprisingly understood the past few days. No, not because most people speak English (on the contrary -most people don't speak much English). But, because there is so much commonality that exists between humans. So much can be said by eye contact, hand gestures -even by the tiny twitches of one's lips when one speaks. And, so much can be communicated through expectations. For instance, I might think 'if I were Ms. Jianjing what might I be thinking now'? What might I say next? Ms. Jianjing could consider the same questions of me. And, thus far it seems we are often correct in our assumptions. Sense of humor is also a big part of it. Whoever said, "We all laugh in the same language" (even if now overused favorite of Hallmark) was correct. I feel like Americans and Chinese citizens have more in common than they might think. I feel like we communicate similarly. This is a very good thing -because it seems as though the future of our nations are becoming more and more entwined.
* * *
Misadventure
We got in a taxi to go to the Great Bell Temple. We showed the driver the map and name of the place. He seemed confused but then nodded in agreement. "A temple," I said. "Yes, yes," he said. We spent 45 minutes in thick city traffic. I love riding in cars so I didn't mind and I kept thinking about the sweet incense smell that was awaiting us. The peaceful silence that we would enter as we shut the door of the temple behind us with a soft swoosh. Perhaps the sounds of shuffling feet and maybe even faint music would bounce off our ear drums as we touched the gold body of a Buddha statue. To entertain ourselves Jill and I invented a Beijing rap song (Yes, that's right) ...Jill would say a line, I would say a line...and then we would intersperse it with disc-scraping noises... the taxi driver must have thought we were crazy- but by now we are used to drawing awkward attention. Jill's bright blond hair attracts a lot of notice. She is the star of many strangers' photographs... she's even agreed to pose for some... and I can't kick the image of some older Chinese man at a bar 3 weeks from now extracting a photograph from his wallet with a smile and a made-up story -pointing to himself standing beside a stunned, tall, blond Jill. Finally the taxi driver pulls up to a curb and smiles. He says something in Chinese and points proudly. It does not look like a temple -unless Buddha has gotten as hip as Jesus these days and embraced colorful commercialism. We decide to get out any way. We have spent 45 minutes in a taxi... we might as well embrace whatever destination we've been taken to. We walk into the building to discover we have entered a gigantic, multi-level furniture store. "This isn't a temple," I say as we both laugh. I have never seen such a nice furniture store in my entire life (truly). It was more like a furniture palace. We wandered around for a few moments. After all, perhaps this is a sign, I thought. YOU ARE DESTINED TO GO TO A FURNITURE STORE RATHER THAN A TEMPLE. Perhaps, just around the next corner everything will become clear. YOU WILL FIND PEACE AMONG THE QUILTED WALL HANGINGS. Perhaps in the bed linens section there will be serenity. SEEK ENLIGHTENMENT AMONG THE WICKER BASKETS. Our images of sweet incense were replaced with fumes from vacuum cleaners and we decided to get out quick before we became lost in the maze of well-lit display rooms. I'm sure one could read symbolism into this chance visit -something along the lines of commercialism overtaking the world -'buy, buy, buy' becoming a mantra -something in the idea of Buddha, God, religion, spirituality, etc. being harder and harder to find. But let's not. Our trip was not futile... we found a bank and food: two things we needed. Utility before God -right?
* * *
5 reasons I love Beijing:
- Bicycles. So many people ride bicycles. There is a whole separate lane just for bikes!
- The food. I love Chinese food... I feel healthy after I eat it. The vegetables (radish, Chinese onion, pumpkin, chives, celery, root of lotus, etc.) rejuvenate one's body. I feel like I have more energy and I feel contently, lightly full after a meal. Perhaps I'm reading too much into the food...perhaps there are other variables... but in general, I just feel healthier after I eat.
- The tea. I love seeing the floating leaves and flowers soak on the very top of the brewed water. I like getting one leaf in my mouth and chewing on it ever so slightly. I like how the hot water steams your face. I like how we are given tea during conversations. Dialogue has to last at least the length of a cup of tea. It's relaxing to know you have time. I feel like we need more time for real conversations in the United States.
- Sense of humor. I feel like the Americans and the Chinese have a similar sense of humor. I have laughed a lot in Beijing.
- History. It is incredible to be in a country that has existed for thousands of years. The United States is so young in comparison.
* * *
Last Day at Yuxin High
Today, before the afternoon workshop, we met with 3 student leaders: Emily, Frederica, and Daphne. Our goal was to talk to them about the project in more detail and work out a plan for continued involvement/collaboration between One World Youth Project and Yuxin. Also, we hoped to discuss with them how they might teach their class about the UN Millennium Development Goals (specifically their goal of UN MDG 5: maternal health) and then lead this discussion into action on a community service project. It was a really productive conversation and I think we all left feeling excited for the future and clearer in our thoughts on the relationship between OWYP and Yuxin and its potentials. We also came up with a working definition of maternal health (appropriate since it was International Women's Day today)... we talked about it as the health of mothers in mind, body, and spirit...as an appreciation and respect for mothers and their well-being.
The workshop today was a whirlwind of activity. There was so much to do! But, the students managed to get it all done! They assembled the cultural exchange box, presented their declaration, wrote letters to their sister-school, filled out a research survey regarding youth perceptions of the current international system, finished their video, sang, talked about the UN Millennium Development Goals, took a group photo with the OWYP banner, and said goodbye! All in 2 hours!! One thing I have noticed about students here is their enthusiastic efficiency!
After the workshop we met with the English teachers for a conversation and tea. Ms. Xing Shuqin had assembled us all together to discuss One World Youth Project and second language studies. Jill and I really enjoyed meeting with the English teachers. It seemed like an appropriate way to celebrate Women's Day... Eleven females of varying ages gathered around a round table, drinking small cups of warm, sweet-smelling tea, and talking about education and youth leadership. I learned a lot from our conversation.
The headmaster of Yuxin treated us and all the English teachers out for a farewell dinner tonight! It was spectacular! We ate in a private room in the upstairs of a restaurant down the street from the school. The round table had a rotating disc in the middle. It was full, plate to plate, of food! I felt so honored to be there. The food was delicious -truly just amazing. And, it didn't have that heavy feeling that American food often has... it was lighter and healthier feeling. My two favorites were the round pumpkin cake pieces and the lotus root stuffed with baked rice. I also liked the sweet tasting Chinese onions. We spent most of the dinner discussing possibilities of continued collaboration between One World Youth Project, Yuxin, and Sherwood High School.
The evening ended with an exchange of gifts. It was sad to say goodbye to all the teachers, especially Ms. Xing Shuqin who we have been working with closely the past few days. But, I left feeling (almost for certain) that I would see these people again.
Until next time China, farewell!
Welcome to China
When we walked off the plane it hit me fast: silence. It was a shock to my system -like when you walk from air conditioning into the humidity of Miami. Last time I had been on land was in Newark airport - which I see now as a montage of fast glimpses: kids crying, mustard spilling, suitcases clanking, the loud speaker crackling with accented voices. And now, thirteen hours later, I stepped off into a parallel airport reality: Beijing, China - shiny floors, gentle lighting, wide expanses of indoor open space. Barely anyone talked, and if they did it was in low, calm voices. Even our feet seemed to make less noise when they hit the ground. It was as though the building had been designed to absorb our sound and radiate silence back to us.
I'm used to immigration lines being battle scenes. I'm used to pushing my way to the attendant, hugging my purse to my chest, and not taking 'no' for an answer. I'm used to sweat dripping down the spine of my back from the extreme heat of Africa -used to clinking ceiling fans and to knowing the faster I get through immigration the better the chance my luggage will still be on the other side. So, I suggested to Jill and that we hurry up our pace to make sure we were some of the first non-nationals in the immigration line. So, we walked fast only to find smiling faces in perfectly formed queues in front of well lit and well staffed immigration booths. And most startling of all -it was so quiet. A smooth hush of stillness rushed through my body. I didn't know how to process it. Immigration was effortless. Baggage claim was pleasant. And, on the other side of the crisp, white airport wall, Barbara stood waiting with a sign that read, "Welcome Jessica and Jill".
Welcome to China.
* * *
Little America and children of globalization
Tonight and tomorrow we are staying with Barbara, a teacher at the International School of Beijing. We are actually in China to work with the Yuxin High School on the other side of the city. But, I had known Barbara through a mutual friend and wanted to meet her while we were in Beijing.
Barbara lives in what she calls "Little America". As a teacher for the International School of Beijing (ISB) she is given housing in one of several Villas near the school. The Villas bear names such as: "Yosemite" and "Sydney Coast". To enter the Villa you pass through a gate with 5 to 7 uniformed guards (who salute every time you pass by). Security has gotten stricter recently because a Taiwanese woman was murdered in her Villa home (which we are told was an unusual and surprising occurrence). Each Villa is filled with identical houses in curving rows. Each home within the Villa has the same layout of big windows, beautiful winding staircases, and tall ceilings. A house like this in the U.S. would be very expensive.
Down the street from the Villas is a small shopping plaza with: a Starbucks, a restaurant called Little Italy, a DVD store, and a Subway. The stores are filled with non-Chinese people -mostly residents, but some visitors. Many foreign families live in Beijing due to employment at multi-national companies based in China. The companies pay for their children to attend international schools...such as the International School of Beijing where Barbara teaches. The students at ISB are from all over the world. As we walked down the halls of the school we passed an art display where 3rd graders had created puzzle pieces representing their heritage. The artwork showed that mothers and fathers were often from different countries and the children had usually lived in two or more countries and spoke several languages.
It seems there is this whole network developing of children who are truly 'citizens of the world' -byproducts of globalization. And, there is also a whole society of international school teachers. Barbara has led an amazing life traveling the globe teaching! She began teaching in Italy, then lived in the Ivory Coast (before the serious conflict broke out), and now has lived and taught in Beijing for 6 years. Her stories are fascinating and her friends are spread out all over the globe -in Sri Lanka, South Africa, Ivory Coast, Costa Rica, Australia, etc.
* * *
Beijing, Beijing, Beijing
Tonight we went into the city. Beijing is like New York, Boston, or D.C. -but so different at the same time. It's challenging to articulate the exact differences... there is just this feeling I get when I walk around... a feeling like this isn't the real Beijing -like this is the one made for brochure covers and if I round a corner fast enough I'll come across the real city -a noisier, more crowded, more frantic version.
There are several strands of commonality that seem to exist everywhere in the city: pastel colors that often involve cartoon-like images (such as the Olympic "friendlies"), small geometric things (the subway cars are so tiny looking with such box-like edges), well-lit spaces (nice street lamps with broad shining bulbs), and the ability to pack a lot into a small space (there is so much to look at in just one corner of one area -yet it doesn't appear cluttered). The street was very clean; it was noisy but calm at the same time. Commercialism is alive and well but seems less frantic than in the United States (billboards feature less faces and more blends of colors and nature images).
Before I arrived here, I pictured China in shades of red (no, not just because of Communism... but because of silk, hanging lamps, sunsets, bright colored-lips, dragon puppets, etc.). I hadn't seen much red until we came across a side street. The entrance was an arched, golden doorway. Shades and textures of red were just oozing out from the entrance way! We entered the arched alleyway and it was like being transported into another world. The lighting was dimmer -more of a fire-side tone -giving everything a glow. By everything I mean: wooden sticks crawling with live scorpion-like insects, roasted white bloated worms pierced with thin poles, shiny gold jewelry on selling-carts, small children in pig-tails their eyes glossy from trying to capture all the sights and sounds above them, smells that reminded me of popcorn and tortilla flour mixed with dog-pee and gasoline, bells and chimes and anything else that jangled and clanged. And, all in a mixture of red-tones...the colors you see in fire: deep reds, harsh golds, sharp greens, and black, black, black filling up all the unused spaces. When I looked up, the night sky was black, black, black -a huge expanse of unused space -no stars. Just a hazy, half sliver of an orange moon.
* * *
Safe
I feel so safe here. Beijing is so safe. Woman can walk alone at night with little worry. Barbara sometimes leaves her car unlocked. Little children wander strides away from their parents, even downtown. Ten year old girls ride city buses alone at 9pm.
It is difficult for me to get used to this. When I travel, I'm used to always having to be hyper-sensitive to everything and everyone around me. I'm used to doubting every smile just a little bit and making sure my hips don't sway too much when I walk. I'm used to making sure whoever I am traveling with is in my eye range. Though, as we walked around last night I felt absurd when I slowed down my pace so Jill would be walking in front of me.
I think Beijing is the safest large city I have ever visited. It is amazing what a relief this is -I feel much freer.
* * *
SUNDAY
The Great Wall
I was at the top of the Great Wall and I leaned out one of the tower windows. Below was an enormous valley, on the horizon were mountains, and between sky and valley was a town -the buildings were so far away they were the size of puzzle pieces. The song "From a Distance" entered my head and suddenly a rush of childhood memories came flooding back to me -memories of dreams of Asia. Dreams of older times -ancient times. Times of emperors, gold plated shields, overworked silk worms, women with braided, shiny black hair, and a wall so long that no beginning or end could be seen from anywhere but satellites in space. And so, I touched the wall. I tried to find a particularly decrepit and mossy spot. And, I just held on to it for a moment. I wanted to feel the history. How many hands had felt this same stone? Who placed it here? When? What did he or she think of this soon to be mammoth structure? I pictured a guard, 600 years ago, pacing the stones where my feet now stood. I pictured him taking a break to lean against the wall, touching this very stone. I tried to picture us there simultaneously. As though his body was a ghostly silhouette over mine. It was too difficult -I couldn't quite picture him -too many unknowns. But, it didn't matter too much... because when I leaned out the window the wind messed with my hair, hit my face, stung my eyes -and if I didn't know any better, if I didn't know that I could turn around and see Barbara and Jill -I could easily have been that guard 600 years ago. Earth hasn't changed that much -same wind, same mountains.
* * *
Barbara's friend, Mr. Lee, told us that at one point the wall was in many separate pieces, each piece guarding a different country. But, when (over 1,000 years ago) a new emperor came to power he brought all the countries together and demanded the wall be connected. For hundreds of years slaves and peasants worked on connecting the wall. Hundreds and hundreds died in the process -their bodies are most likely buried in foundation of the wall. Once completed, the wall was highly protected. Guards made sure no one from Mongolia (a country with a struggling economy) could enter China. The guards would stand on each of the towers on the wall. To communicate they made smoke signals by burning wolf dung.
* * *
Coupons, Mao, communism, capitalism, and Mr. Lee
Mr. Lee told us about his life. He said, "I never would have imagined such changes. As a child I never would have thought Beijing would be like it is now. Never." He was born in 1963. His parents both worked in an automobile factory. Barely anyone owned a car in China at that time, but the vehicles were produced for companies to use. Everyone used bicycles for transport. "We bought things with coupons," Lee explained. The government distributed coupons to each person and family. A coupon was like a ticket that could be redeemed for a certain product. Each family was given coupons for different products -but they could not choose which products. "The food was so little," Lee told us. "It was so little with the coupons. We also would use a little bit of money too when we traded in our coupon." Every month the government distributed new coupons. Every year the government gave each individual a coupon for a new bicycle. "When I was young we didn't learn much in school. We just learned the stuff of Mao. We learned his slogans, his sayings, how he thought things should be," said Lee. For instance, if one walked into a shop one was expected to say a certain phrase to the shopkeeper. The shopkeeper would then reply with a certain phrase back. Mao Tse Tung scripted the nation's conversations. Mao hoped to control the nation. He hoped to prevent outside influences from filtering in and effecting his populous. "There was a time when it was forbidden for foreigners to talk with us," said Lee. "If we talked with them, there was a punishment. Foreigners only had one shop in the entire city where they could shop. Just one -no place else."
Here is a little of what Mao had to say:
"A well-disciplined Party armed with the theory of Marxism-Leninism, using the method of self-criticism and linked with the masses of the people; an army under the leadership of such a Party; a united front of all revolutionary classes and all revolutionary groups under the leadership of such a Party -these are three main weapons with which we have defeated the enemy." (1949)
"Communism is at once a complete system of proletarian ideology and a new social system. It is different from any other ideological and social system, and is the most complete, progressive, revolutionary and rational system in human history." (1940)
"The nooses have been fashioned by the Americans themselves and by nobody else, and it is they themselves who have put these nooses round their own necks, handing the ends of the ropes to the Chinese people, the peoples of the Arab countries and all the people of the world who love peace and oppose aggression." (1958)
"People of the world, united and defeat the U.S. aggressors and all their running dogs. People of the world, be courageous, dare to fight, defy difficulties and advance wave upon wave. Then the whole world will belong to the people. Monsters of all kinds shall be destroyed." (1964)
Lee did not like Mao. But, he explained that many did and still do. "The uneducated loved Mao," said Lee. "They didn't understand. Many still don't understand. They still don't know the facts. They still think he did good -the ones who are not educated, who are ignorant, think this."
During the 1940s the Chinese Civil War was in full swing. In 1949, the Communists under the leadership of Mao came to power. The opposing side -the Kuomintang -fled to Taiwan. The People's Liberation Army (PLA) marched into Beijing where Mao proclaimed the People's Republic of China. In 1966 Mao launched the Cultural Revolution. Anything that was considered to be anti-proletarian was to be destroyed. This included temples, the educational system, and often times, people. Mao's youth army, the Red Guard, patrolled the nation. Anyone harboring "capitalist-roadster" thoughts was suspect. Neighbors turned on one another. In 1979, Deng Xiaoping launched a modernization drive. China opened up. Westerners were allowed in. Temples, monuments, and schools were restored. China embraced modernity, but did not alter politically. In 1989, pro-democracy student demonstrations took place in Tiananmen Square. The government responded brutally. The whole world watched. Today, China exists as a communist and capitalist nation -somehow, perhaps awkwardly, balancing the two.
"I grew up when things were changing. But, change this great I did not expect," Lee explained. "Do I like China better now? Yes, of course. There has been so much change. So much." When asked what he thinks of China being communist -whether he thinks it will remain communist, Lee laughs and says, "China is not really communist -not truly."
"Do you think China is going to be the next big superpower in the world?" I ask Lee.
"Yes. Yes, I do," he says.
*Note: Beyond, historical facts, quotations, and dates mentioned, the above dialogue is a description of a subjective conversation. Each person in China has his or her own opinion of the political situation. This is just one opinion.
* * *
Bikes and leaves
It was a picture I wish I had taken. A 1970s bike leaned against a bush. And, the bush was almost the same color as the bike. It was as though someone had adjusted the color levels on life. Both bike and bush seemed to be veiled in grayish gossamer. I touched the leaf -a bright green thumb print appeared. The leaves were dusty. The bike was dusty. Enough dust had fallen and settled to change the colors of life -to hide them. Yet, when I turned around and looked at the horizon, I saw one of the most spectacular sunsets. Electric red and sparkling orange pulsated the sun into ripples, they fizzed over at the edges into yellow and pink. Pollution redistributes the color palette. It has favorites -bikes and leaves apparently don't make the cut.
* * *
MONDAY
Linear Beijing
I see lines everywhere. If someone were to ask me right now, "How do you see Beijing?" I would reply, "I see it in straight lines." It is thousands of thin lines that illustrate the Y50 bill -the lines create the hair, eyelids, and background of the man on the front of the paper currency. It is parallel lines that decorate the cement sidewalks. The children march in rows. Buildings are aligned parallel to one another. Every time I have seen a tree, it has been in a row. Along the roadside there are hundreds of trees planted in lines. It is as though someone studied the 'idea' of a forest or a park:
A forest is a place where trees grow. A park is a place where families can relax in nature.
And, then applied a formula to replicate it:
We can maximize the number of trees if we plant them in eight parallel rows. We can maximize the number of families who can relax in the park if we have empty spaces between the trees of seven feet.
And, the result is planned nature. Huge areas of forest where all the trees are in rows. I mean, literally, I have not come across a tree that does not belong to a straight line of at least five others.
I see Beijing as a city of lines. It makes me notice more. The lines act as arrows, pointing out the subtleties of the city. I find myself following the lines with my eyes until I meet their completion. For instance, my eyes followed the space between two rows of trees as far as it went. I squinted to focus on what was at the other end -a field and a person walking -his boots were dark brown and muddy. My eyes followed a cement line design in the street and came upon pointed high heel shoes. The shoes were small, shiny, leather, and very stylish. They were attached to a teenage girl with a shaggy haircut, dark crimson lips, cheeks painted with pink blush, and eyes decorated with darkening mascara.
* * *
Yuxin High School
The first thing we did when we arrived at Yuxin High School was to attend the Monday morning assembly. The headmaster, a well-dressed man with a kind smile and a welcoming laugh, led us to the cement courtyard. There over 100 students stood -all in matching track-suit uniforms (all Chinese schools require uniforms of their students... usually all of the bright-colored, track-suit nature). They stood in rows, facing a stage. Some students wore red scarves around their necks (a sign of prestige for those youth who have demonstrated academic success). Several young people spoke on stage into an echoey microphone. Sometimes after the student speaker said something, the crowd would repeat it in unison. Sometimes the crowd marched or did stretches in unison. Near the end of the assembly everyone sang the school's poem in unison, as the Chinese flag waved in the background. This assembly happens every Monday morning of every week.
After the assembly we were given a tour of the school. What struck me most was the amazing student artwork. The artistic skill level was incredible... fifth grade artwork looked like something one could see in exhibition (no exaggeration).
After being fed a delicious lunch, drinking several cups of tea, and made to feel very welcomed, we met the 40 high school sophomores we'd be working with for the next few days. It was simultaneously exciting and nerve-racking to walk into the classroom. The students in Chinese schools do not move from class to class (their teachers travel instead) -so everyone was already seated... eyes forward, expectant. We introduced ourselves ...although things still seemed a little awkward, we could tell by the smiles and bits of excited laughter that things were going to work out well. Our goals for the day were to break the ice, to get everyone talking, and to introduce their sister-school (Sherwood High School of Sandy Spring, Maryland, USA).
We always strive to be interactive with everything we do with One World Youth Project. If we tell a story -there has to be a call and response element. If we introduce a concept like the UN Millennium Development Goals -there has to be a time for students to respond and react. The trick, I think, is to never let too many sentences slip passed without reminding the students that this is a dialogue rather than a lecture; and that we are moderators/facilitators rather than teachers.
Everyone in the class spoke English very well! But, Jill and I kept having to remind ourselves to speak slowly and clearly ...and to speak with alternative phrases added on to the ends of our sentences... for example: "In South Africa, they wanted to vote the U.S.A. out of the summit (slight pause), wanted to kick the U.S.A. out (slight pause), they wanted to make us leave."
After 25 to 30 minutes things seemed comfortable. We were all laughing a lot!
We showed the DVD from Sherwood High School on the big screen in the classroom. Everyone was captivated. It was exciting and interesting to see the students' reactions. They seemed most surprised at the scenes of the Sherwood students eating lunch with friends in a classroom. Everyone laughed when they said, "Hello China!"
After the video we asked the students to reflect on the similarities and differences between their own school and what they saw of Sherwood. The first thing someone said was: "Freedom. There is much more freedom at Sherwood." Over the next few responses this statement would be elaborated on in varying forms: "They can eat lunch in more freedom" "They don't wear uniforms", etc. They noticed similarities too: "The math in the math class... it was calculus... we learned that same formula. And, can I ask you a question? Is that the kind of math all American students learn? Because we had heard that our math in school in China was more advanced?" This spurred a series of questions about the United States. Here were some of the questions:
-What about parents being strict? Are they strict to their children?
-What about relationships... boy and girls... do they allow?
-Can girls dress up in the United States? To school?
-When my dad visited New York City he said there were a lot of bad people doing bad things…is this true? He said in the subway he saw bad people around.
-Can students have musical bands in school?
-Who is your favorite singer?
-Do you know Yao Ming?
-Do many youth wear glasses in the United States? (A lot of the students at Yuxin were wearing glasses).
-How many hours of homework a night does an average American student do?
-Do you like Chinese food? Have you had Beijing duck?
-What do Americans think of China... American youth... honestly? Do they know much about our country?
-How long is the school day in America? (They were shocked by how short it was).
In turn we asked questions...
-What do you like best about your school?
*The teachers. They are so nice. *My classmates. They are like my brothers and sisters. I do not have brothers and sisters... so my classmates are my brothers and sisters. We are so close.
-What do you like least about your school?
*The uniforms. They are so ugly.
*I don't like how us girls have to have the same haircut. Has to be short. The government says we have to have our hair this way...for some reasons they have given. Boys too...they have two options of haircuts.
*The stress. There is so much work. \ So much pressure... everyone HAS to go to college... to try to go.
*Not enough freedom.
The students we have met are very hardworking. They have an incredible amount of homework and go to school for long hours. Most don't finish till around 5pm. Everything builds up to this one test all students have to take their senior year of high school. One's results from the test determine whether one goes to college and to which kind of college... which, of course, in turn determines what kind of job one might have in the future and what kind of salary, etc.
Yet, all the students are always smiling, laughing, talking, playing basketball and running around at break time. There seems to be a very close bond between classmates -more so than in the United States. China has the 'one child per family' policy to help with overpopulation... so most students have no brothers or sisters... and it really seems as though their classmates do act as their brothers and sisters. School seems like a family in China. The students spend the majority of their daily life at school. Even teachers seem to have a closer bond with one another. Yuxin High School is its own community. And, the students here are lucky -Yuxin is a very good public school in a nice location.
* * *
TUESDAY
Exercising Grannies and Disappearing Calligraphy
This morning we were able to visit the Summer Palace, once home to Emperors of the Qing-dynasty. In 1860 many of the buildings were severely damaged during the Second Opium War. Approximately twenty years later Empress Dowager Cixi (once one of Emperor Xianfeng's concubines), spent money earmarked for a modern navy to refurbish the palace.
When I think about the palace two particular images remain inked in my memory:
IMAGE ONE: Paint brushes 4.5 feet tall
Picture first a long thin branch stretching out across a blank palette of nothingness. Give this branch delicate evergreen pine needles. The branch dances up and down gently in the wind. The needles scrape against each other, making an almost metallic sound that if given a word, I would give: tsiss, tsiss. Behind the branch paint in a lake. It is cold so the lake has that grayish-blue tinge of winter. Beside the lake add in curving land. Land that is high enough to form a small grainy cliff by the water's edge. Where the land meets the lake, imagine ice chunks. On top of the land place a smooth stone walkway. Keep your dancing branch close to your eyes. It is almost as though you are looking through the pine needles to see the lake -if you duck under the branch you have a better view of the whole scene. Now, squint your eyes to other side of the lake. There, an arched bridge rests. It is severely arched -like the back of an inch-worm. The air around the bridge appears foggy. Everything in the distance is hazy. Just beyond the branch an older man stands holding a paint brush that is at least 4 and half feet tall. The tip of the large brush head has been dipped in either water or light colored ink. He rapidly paints Chinese characters on the cement walkway. He paints them in vertical lines. As he moves on to the next line, the previously painted characters are already starting to fade.
IMAGE TWO: Exercising Grannies
Picture your grandmother in a bright colored track suit. Picture her wearing brilliant white sneakers, picture her hair pushed back by a headband. Now place her in the stone courtyard of a Chinese palace over 200 years old (just try it). Now, add in the grandmothers of eleven of your friends. So, all together there are twelve grannies in the stone courtyard. Okay. Now, add in a boom-box. The boom-box is playing a disco-meets-techno beat. The twelve grandmas are in 4 rows of 3. They are marching to the beat in unison. They are crouching to the beat in unison -now turning slowly, now punching the air, now marching, now crouching, now turning slowly, etc. Every morning tens of older Chinese men and women exercise (often in groups) in public parks and historical sites. I have a great admiration for these fit grandmas and grandpas. And, what an amazing place to exercise -an emperor's palace!
* * *
Day Two at Yuxin High
People are people everywhere. Young people are young people everywhere. We are all so similar. I see the same smiles, laughs, friendships in the students at Yuxin as I see in the students at Sherwood. It is so comforting to yet again discover how close together we all really are.
Today was a fun day. That's what one of the students, Emily, told us. "Today was fun," she said as we were walking to the teacher's office after the workshop
During the two hour workshop we split the class into 2 groups. One group worked with Jill to write a declaration about their lives/community to the United Nations. And, the other group worked with me to film their school's documentary to send to their sister-school in Maryland.
I was very impressed by the natural leadership that we saw in the students. The students were excellent at self-organization. Once we got everything explained and all the groups divided up, things ran smoothly. Everyone took their tasks seriously -yet we also had fun in the process.
The video group has been very creative. I can't wait to show Sherwood High School the final documentary!
* * *
Old to New
There is so much construction going on in Beijing. Everywhere I turn, I see the skeletons of buildings soon to be complete. Then, there are hundreds of already shiny, new sky-scrapers -modernity everywhere. Technology buzzing on every city street. As we drive passed the building frameworks, I close my eyes to imagine what their completed form might be like. One can almost fill in the whole city like this. Beijing in 5 years... all this empty space we pass...all these older buildings... all the hutongs (traditional alleyways) most likely filled in with things shiny, new, and tall. The city will be massive -in width and height.
* * *
WEDNESDAY
We understand each other
I feel like everyday I find a new Beijing. First off the city is huge -and that is an understatement. Second, there is a severe amount of traffic. This combination provides a lot of time to gaze out a car window. A short distance is a 30 minute drive. On average it takes us 45 minutes to an hour by taxi to get from one location to the next. So, I've seen much of China in passing -whizzing away beyond the window glass. I keep trying to grab onto images... keep trying to think, 'okay, this is what I will remember of Beijing. This is the adjective I can use to describe the city.' But on the next street, my conclusions are shattered and morphed. It is a constant evolution of image -and a constant processing of experiences. Every night I come back with a mental package of things to think through and reflect on. So, I have no adjectives to give you. No "Beijing is..." statements to offer. But, the one thing I can say is this: for only knowing one word of Chinese, I have felt surprisingly understood the past few days. No, not because most people speak English (on the contrary -most people don't speak much English). But, because there is so much commonality that exists between humans. So much can be said by eye contact, hand gestures -even by the tiny twitches of one's lips when one speaks. And, so much can be communicated through expectations. For instance, I might think 'if I were Ms. Jianjing what might I be thinking now'? What might I say next? Ms. Jianjing could consider the same questions of me. And, thus far it seems we are often correct in our assumptions. Sense of humor is also a big part of it. Whoever said, "We all laugh in the same language" (even if now overused favorite of Hallmark) was correct. I feel like Americans and Chinese citizens have more in common than they might think. I feel like we communicate similarly. This is a very good thing -because it seems as though the future of our nations are becoming more and more entwined.
* * *
Misadventure
We got in a taxi to go to the Great Bell Temple. We showed the driver the map and name of the place. He seemed confused but then nodded in agreement. "A temple," I said. "Yes, yes," he said. We spent 45 minutes in thick city traffic. I love riding in cars so I didn't mind and I kept thinking about the sweet incense smell that was awaiting us. The peaceful silence that we would enter as we shut the door of the temple behind us with a soft swoosh. Perhaps the sounds of shuffling feet and maybe even faint music would bounce off our ear drums as we touched the gold body of a Buddha statue. To entertain ourselves Jill and I invented a Beijing rap song (Yes, that's right) ...Jill would say a line, I would say a line...and then we would intersperse it with disc-scraping noises... the taxi driver must have thought we were crazy- but by now we are used to drawing awkward attention. Jill's bright blond hair attracts a lot of notice. She is the star of many strangers' photographs... she's even agreed to pose for some... and I can't kick the image of some older Chinese man at a bar 3 weeks from now extracting a photograph from his wallet with a smile and a made-up story -pointing to himself standing beside a stunned, tall, blond Jill. Finally the taxi driver pulls up to a curb and smiles. He says something in Chinese and points proudly. It does not look like a temple -unless Buddha has gotten as hip as Jesus these days and embraced colorful commercialism. We decide to get out any way. We have spent 45 minutes in a taxi... we might as well embrace whatever destination we've been taken to. We walk into the building to discover we have entered a gigantic, multi-level furniture store. "This isn't a temple," I say as we both laugh. I have never seen such a nice furniture store in my entire life (truly). It was more like a furniture palace. We wandered around for a few moments. After all, perhaps this is a sign, I thought. YOU ARE DESTINED TO GO TO A FURNITURE STORE RATHER THAN A TEMPLE. Perhaps, just around the next corner everything will become clear. YOU WILL FIND PEACE AMONG THE QUILTED WALL HANGINGS. Perhaps in the bed linens section there will be serenity. SEEK ENLIGHTENMENT AMONG THE WICKER BASKETS. Our images of sweet incense were replaced with fumes from vacuum cleaners and we decided to get out quick before we became lost in the maze of well-lit display rooms. I'm sure one could read symbolism into this chance visit -something along the lines of commercialism overtaking the world -'buy, buy, buy' becoming a mantra -something in the idea of Buddha, God, religion, spirituality, etc. being harder and harder to find. But let's not. Our trip was not futile... we found a bank and food: two things we needed. Utility before God -right?
* * *
5 reasons I love Beijing:
- Bicycles. So many people ride bicycles. There is a whole separate lane just for bikes!
- The food. I love Chinese food... I feel healthy after I eat it. The vegetables (radish, Chinese onion, pumpkin, chives, celery, root of lotus, etc.) rejuvenate one's body. I feel like I have more energy and I feel contently, lightly full after a meal. Perhaps I'm reading too much into the food...perhaps there are other variables... but in general, I just feel healthier after I eat.
- The tea. I love seeing the floating leaves and flowers soak on the very top of the brewed water. I like getting one leaf in my mouth and chewing on it ever so slightly. I like how the hot water steams your face. I like how we are given tea during conversations. Dialogue has to last at least the length of a cup of tea. It's relaxing to know you have time. I feel like we need more time for real conversations in the United States.
- Sense of humor. I feel like the Americans and the Chinese have a similar sense of humor. I have laughed a lot in Beijing.
- History. It is incredible to be in a country that has existed for thousands of years. The United States is so young in comparison.
* * *
Last Day at Yuxin High
Today, before the afternoon workshop, we met with 3 student leaders: Emily, Frederica, and Daphne. Our goal was to talk to them about the project in more detail and work out a plan for continued involvement/collaboration between One World Youth Project and Yuxin. Also, we hoped to discuss with them how they might teach their class about the UN Millennium Development Goals (specifically their goal of UN MDG 5: maternal health) and then lead this discussion into action on a community service project. It was a really productive conversation and I think we all left feeling excited for the future and clearer in our thoughts on the relationship between OWYP and Yuxin and its potentials. We also came up with a working definition of maternal health (appropriate since it was International Women's Day today)... we talked about it as the health of mothers in mind, body, and spirit...as an appreciation and respect for mothers and their well-being.
The workshop today was a whirlwind of activity. There was so much to do! But, the students managed to get it all done! They assembled the cultural exchange box, presented their declaration, wrote letters to their sister-school, filled out a research survey regarding youth perceptions of the current international system, finished their video, sang, talked about the UN Millennium Development Goals, took a group photo with the OWYP banner, and said goodbye! All in 2 hours!! One thing I have noticed about students here is their enthusiastic efficiency!
After the workshop we met with the English teachers for a conversation and tea. Ms. Xing Shuqin had assembled us all together to discuss One World Youth Project and second language studies. Jill and I really enjoyed meeting with the English teachers. It seemed like an appropriate way to celebrate Women's Day... Eleven females of varying ages gathered around a round table, drinking small cups of warm, sweet-smelling tea, and talking about education and youth leadership. I learned a lot from our conversation.
The headmaster of Yuxin treated us and all the English teachers out for a farewell dinner tonight! It was spectacular! We ate in a private room in the upstairs of a restaurant down the street from the school. The round table had a rotating disc in the middle. It was full, plate to plate, of food! I felt so honored to be there. The food was delicious -truly just amazing. And, it didn't have that heavy feeling that American food often has... it was lighter and healthier feeling. My two favorites were the round pumpkin cake pieces and the lotus root stuffed with baked rice. I also liked the sweet tasting Chinese onions. We spent most of the dinner discussing possibilities of continued collaboration between One World Youth Project, Yuxin, and Sherwood High School.
The evening ended with an exchange of gifts. It was sad to say goodbye to all the teachers, especially Ms. Xing Shuqin who we have been working with closely the past few days. But, I left feeling (almost for certain) that I would see these people again.
Until next time China, farewell!
